Loop timer supported devices (updating):all 1 gang switch/socket(required firmware ver. 1.5.0 and higher, G1 is excluded from the list), including S20 smart socket, Sonoff Touch EU/US, Sonoff Basic, Sonoff SV, Sonoff TH10/TH16, Sonoff RF, Slampher, Sonoff Pow (required firmware ver. 2.0.3 and higher), Motor Clockwise/ Anticlockwise Running WiFi.
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WiFi Configuration
After flashing the device and attaching standard power to it, the device should start broadcasting a wifi SSID. The SSID will match the device type followed by a period and then some characters representing the devices MAC address. For example, the Sonoff TH would look like SonoffTH.3d8883d0f90f and the SmartLife H801 would look like esprgbw.5d7d404fe294. You then connect to the AP with the password: configme.
- Thu Nov 15, 2018 5:21 pm #79164 I've come up with an unusual way of controlling a Sonoff smart switch without needing to use any Wifi access point. It uses Wifi probe request messages so neither the client or the Sonoff needs to be connected to an access point - the client sends probe requests with its mac address encoding which Sonoff.
- Please manually change DNS server address to 119.29.29.29. Then try to re-add your device. IP address conflict. Please close all other connections that connect to the router. Then try to re-add your device. You can also ping our server address on your computer. Please select the server address according to your location.
At this point, you may automatically be directed to a captive portal for the device in order to connect it to your WiFi network. If you don’t, then open a web browser and navigate to http://192.168.4.1. Here you are presented with a few options. You can either scan for your network to connect to or simply enter the network SSID and password. Either way, it is pretty self explanatory. After it connects to the network you specified, you will be booted back over to your home WiFi and the device should show up in your routers DHCP assigned license list. You can take note of the assigned ip address for some advanced configuration down the road, but it is not necessary to finish the setup in SmartThings.
SmartThings
Many third party devices (that are not Zigbee or Z-Wave) have a companion app that needs to be installed in order for the devices to work with SmartThings. The SmartLife versions of the devices found on this blog are the same way. You first install and publish the Sonoff (Connect) or SmartLife RGBW (Connect) SmartApps to guide you the rest of the way through the installation process. While you are at it, you might as well install the necessary device handlers that are listed on each device blog page.
At this point, go into the SmartThings app on your phone and install an instance of either Sonoff (Connect) or SmartLife RGBW (Connect). Only one instance of each is needed regardless of how many devices you install. For most people, clicking on “Discover Devices” will be the next step to take. Wait up to 5 minutes and your device should show up. Click the check box next to the device, hit next, and this will install the device for use in SmartThings. That’s it! Depending on which device it is, you may be able to do some additional configuration inside of the SmartApp, otherwise you can go back to the “Things” list, find the device, and start to play around with it. It will be a fully functional SmartThings device that can be used in other SmartApps, Routines, Phrases, etc. You can also now control the devices through Google Home and Amazon Alexa!
I have a few of the Sonoff Basic devices. I’d flashed one of them with a custom firmware before, but then was using the stock firmware, and having them operate in LAN mode.
However, that’s less than awesome: for one, it means I need to have (and maintain) a custom service running somewhere on my network, and because of the way you need to provision them, it’s hard to move this to a different machine.
With ESPhome, I’ve started re-flashing my old ESP8266 devices, so I had a go at some of the Sonoff. Neither of the ones I had installed (with the stock firwmare) had headers soldered onto the UART pins, but it turned out that one of my USB-UART devices had the pins in the correct order that I was able to (after disconnecting it from the mains, of course), hold the button down, press the USB-UART device into position, and then connect the USB port. After a couple of seconds, I released the button, and, eventually (after a couple of tries), have the device in “flash” mode.
Of course, I only discovered this after totally disconnecting one, soldering on some header pins and then connecting the device using hookup wires.
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Then I uploaded the custom firmware. At which point I was able to re-upload firmware using the OTA mode, which means I no longer had to juggle the serial connector, USB and GPIO0 button.
So, I then flashed another one, this time without having to solder, and had both of them configured as devices on my IoT network.
But, there was a problem. They would only connect to the Wifi when they were connected to the serial connector. When I disconnected the serial port, and reconnected them to the mains supply, they would operate correctly, but would not connect to Wifi. Even though one of them was literally less than a metre from the router.
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I did a bit of research, and there apparently are a batch that are like this. Tasmotafirmwarehasissuesthat mention this on GitHub, but then in those issues they are marked as “resolved”. Unfortunately there was not really a good resolution - more than likely it was just some type of stale-bot just closing issues that had not been updated in a certain time frame. At least one of these suggested that a newer firmware worked, but that was no good for me.
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A couple of these issues identified that there was a missing capacitor, but one of them mentioned that they had soldered together the 3v3 supply, and the RX and TX pins.
So, I ran some experiments. Connecting the 3v3 pin to either of those other pins had no effect, but connecting the RX and TX together suddenly allowed my device with the header pins to connect!
Luckily, these pins are adjacent, so I found a jumper (I remember when these were on just about every hard drive, but I couldn’t find one today with a single pin), and hooked it up.
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All good!
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Glencoe the american journey early years pdf online. Unfortunately, when putting it back together I didn’t align the top cover with the button correctly, so I managed to break that. Which just means I can’t control the switch directly, only remotely. That’s pretty annoying (it’s one of the reasons I went with Sonoff over some other solutions), but at least it works on HomeKit now.